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C Engleman
Приєднався 6 кві 2008
DIY: How to level a uneven, wavy, or sloping wood floor
PLEASE READ before you ask why I didn't just fix the foundation, beams, or joists. There was a brick chimney estimated to weigh about 2200 pounds that was sitting directly on the floor and was unsupported from underneath. The house was built in 1916 and over the years, the large 8-10" hardwood carrying beams, joists, and two layers of perpendicular subfloor planks all warped under the weight. I removed the chimney and jacked up the house, replaced the footer and concrete block perimeter foundation, but the curvature of the beams could not be straightened, and there is only a small crawlspace underneath to work. The floor is now supported from below with concrete and posts, but I needed to correct the warping above WITHOUT SPENDING an enormous amount of time and money rebuilding the structure. If I wanted a perfect like new house, I would have rented and excavator, destroyed and buried this one, then built a new one. It would have been less work. This, however, has worked perfectly for my needs. Cheap and fast, and the structure is no less rigid after adding supports below. I uploaded this only because I could find no other methods on UA-cam. It may not be the best way, but it is working out great. I'm using a level, screws, and scribing tool to level an uneven wood floor.
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Thank you so much for this video, I was going to pull up the floorboards and sister the joists but your way seems to be a lot easier! Appreciate it man! 👍
Glad it helped!
This was amazing to see. I'm 19 and I live in a house that constantly needs to be worked on and I love doing it and to see such a smart technique got me really inspired. It sounds corny, but it's true. I can't wait to try this out myself.
Thanks. Lots of people tell me I did it wrong, but a "good" method that actually gets done is always better than a "perfect" method that never gets done. Good luck!
Wouldn't it be better to lay it down perpendicular to the current floor boards to avoid any potential creaking? Then, each new support is supported by multiple boards, not just one.
Since the new subfloor would be resting on the shims, I wanted the weight distributed across the underlying heavier joists instead of the thin and flimsy floorboards.
Nice way to get it done.
Very useful video, thank you
I thought I had all the tools needed for this, but Lowe’s doesn’t carry tubas. :/
This idea is amazing. I'm going use a combination of this and another one I saw for my house sine only 1/3 of the room is off level for me. Thank you!
This video may have just saved me a lot of headache. I've got a stucco home built in 1910 with very similar issues yours has, and I've been weighing my options as to how I'm going to level the floors before putting new flooring down. My fear with my home is if I were to adjust the beams from the basement, what it would affect in the rest of the home.
Brilliant idea, thanks for sharing
Awesome video. Thank you!!
I moved into a 1910 house last year and have been wracking my brain, trying to think of how to level the very sloping upstairs hallway to be both level itself and also level with the bathroom floor. I think this may well be the answer! It’s only a small area, so hopefully not a huge project. Question: will this method still allow easy access under the original floorboards? I have heating pipes under the floor and would like to maintain easy access to them. I guess as long as the pieces can be unscrewed it shouldn’t be a problem?
Yes, I always use screws just in case I need to take it apart. Good luck with your project!
@@737T1C130 Thanks so much!
Damn, that looks like a good 1 1/2 to 2 inch.
Great idea using screws.
Thanks man
thnak you, i will be doing exactly this!
Great idea love it thank you
Doorways are.goimg.to be all messed up
Nope
Briliant
What a brilliant idea, kudos for engineering this. This method is head and shoulders above anything else I've seen on UA-cam. Well done.
Good video, thank you.
Need you a laser buddy. Make that a different process, at least that 72" .
Man i can only agreed with the previous comment this is awesome i am about to get to do the same thing on my room, thank you so much for sharing this.
I see I am way long from posting to making a comment but just wanted to say, in the process of buying an old home and the floors are terrible. It has had some foundation repairs before and, like you, probably needs new footers and posts but each floor has shifted and sagged different amounts. You put a level under the joists and its pretty minor. The 2nd floor though is wavey and in one place you can see the closet has shifted (sagged) inches. Once I have it stripped down to studs I'll know for sure if there is more structure to repair but I'm thinking, aftet 160 years, its the same thing you had here.
Thank you for posting your video for this particular situation. You just saved my pocket book 5k.
Great to hear! Glad it helped
THANK YOU
That was brilliant
Thanks!
Great video and well presented!
I would have removed the flooring and jacked the joists up to level the floors. Adding wood onto rotting wood just makes the issue worse long term.
False. The problem was fixed for far cheaper than your method and has now lasted years with absolutely no problems. The whole time it has been generating rent revenue. When you purchase an investment home, please post a video of yourself doing expensive unnecessary work. Thanks.
@@737T1C130It's not false. Please explain how wood becomes rotten. Floors do not become rotten overnight so saying it lasted years doesn't mean anything. Come back in 20, 30, even 40 years and say the same thing. Stating that it generates revenue is irrelevant to what I said I would have done. Doing things right the first time isn't unnecessary. Trying to save a buck by cutting corners or half-assing things only makes the work more expensive because you have to go back and do it again. Calm down. No need to get all defensive.
@@zangetsudx1 the floor will outlast you. Don’t concern yourself with it. It’s fine. If you don’t like it, move along.
@@737T1C130 You can do it however you want. We will see about that. I'm just letting other people who watch this there are better solutions to the problem
@@zangetsudx1 Cool. Shoot me a message when you actually make a video to help people with your better solution instead of armchair quarterbacking someone's actual effort. "Rebuild the whole thing". Great advice, Einstein.
That's exactly what I decided to do with the uneven floor in my house. Glad to see it's feasible.
Fantastic! But! I have pvc doors& frames in between the rooms,I need to raise the floor to... How do I work around that🤔
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!!!
I am amateur. If I were to approach this job, I would use a laser level gauge that can in one shot indicate the height of all walls, then run criss cross strings
I'd really like to see a video of you putting that theory into practice.
This method, with the plywood on top and then any other flooring will clear a decent “lip” at the entry to the room won’t it? If so, how did you address the trip hazard?
Thank you for this! One thing that I like about this method, which I have not seen mentioned in the other comments: There are cases like mine where you need the floor to be a flat plane while not being exactly level. In my case, I need a slight slope (1 inch over 15 feet) to bridge from one room to another. I plan to use this screw technique to level over each joist, while allowing a slight drop from one to the next. The flatness can be checked with a straight edge. Hopefully the 3/4 new plywood wil lbe flat enough for my LVP. Any comments or tips wil be welcomed. Thanks again.
Great point! Glad it helped
fixing problem not issue
LOL
How do you find the highest point in the rooms in order to follow the other highest points on the other rooms?
I’d like to buy you a beer sir. 👏🍺👍
Might have already said thank you but thank you just watched it again . I'll post a picture of our project when it's done
I just bought a old house and has uneven floors level so if you can help for estimate to fix that would great
Good thoughts
Really liked your video! Wouldn't the 2x4s add too much height to the existing floor on the higher end? I did the same thing recently to one of the rooms in my 1922 house, but I sistered the existing joists instead of adding angled 2x4s on top of the existing floor. ua-cam.com/video/UztX9Ey3hYg/v-deo.html
Thanks again…..
That's the screwiest way to level a floor I've ever seen. Kudos. My first inclination would've been to sister the joists, but that would be a little more spendy...
Awesome and helpful video, and one thing came to my mind, that you don't even have to cut the board second time, you can take the height of the last screw (the one which is screwed the most) with a compass, transfer that height from the top of the board and take that point as the starting point for marking wirh compass and for first cut (of course you should start at the part with the biggest deviations , i.e. the part that you cut the most)
Look at you go. I dig it.
Look at me.
Oh, I'm looking. 😂 I need you to come help me do my upstairs hallway because my boyfriend is way too impatient for something like this. He's a half-asser and I'm a perfectionist. 🙃
Thanks for posting and sharing. We bought an old house too and the whole main floor is like this. A year or so after we bought the place we redid the structure in the basement including using jack posts to shore up the main middle carrying beam that ran the length of the house. The exterior edges of the main floor are pretty much level but we've got waves. This method will help very much. Nakummek-Thank you!
NIce. Thats cool.
So very helpful! Thank you.
Great video, I will be trying this technique, thank you 😃
Does this not affect the height of all the doors basically doubling your work? Couldn’t you use a self leveling mix?
I trimmed about an inch from the bottom of one door. Self-leveling compound is heavier, is not to be used on top of wood, and can only be poured 5/8" thick.
@@737T1C130 thanks!